Spray Systems

The pumps are self-priming pumps so as long as your sealer is diluted properly and you have ample sealer in your tank your sprayer will self-prime. Always make sure that air isn’t sucking into the pump or you will lose prime and your pump will get quite hot potentially compromising the main seal which leads to a leaking pump.

If the sealer is too thick the pump will struggle with a prime as it’s like sucking a thick milkshake through a small straw.

Make sure your sealer is diluted at 20% to 30% at all times.

Check out this related article: priming your spray system.

If you’re using the sealer within the week it can remain in the tank. Just periodically agitate the material in the tank to prevent it from settling and starting to cure.

If you want to remove the sealer from your main tank and store the sealer, we recommend taking off your spray tip and starting your unit up and then pumping the sealer into a drum or separate storage tank. Once this is done, flush your main tank out with water.

You can flush out your spray system by connecting the transfer kit or suction hose to a bucket or drum of water.

Simply turn your unit to Spray mode and spray the sealer back out into the drum or bucket that you got it from originally.

For more details, see this blog post: https://blog.asphaltkingdom.com/priming-spray-system

Our spray systems work only with Asphalt Emulsion Sealer.

If you use:

• a sealer with sand, 
• or oil based sealer,

the spray system will not work: the pump will need repair and you may even blow the engine.

If you use the wrong sealer your warranty is voided in the same way as if you were using diesel fuel in a gasoline engine for your truck. 

300 gallon metal tanks with sweep agitation blades mostly move the product contents near the outside walls of the storage tank. The heavy paddles usually rotate very slowly and are driven by cumbersome gears, chains, and pulleys. The product near the center of the tank may never even get mixed at all!

To observe this, try this revealing experiment:

First take a can of paint, secondly take a paint stir stick. Now stir the contents using the stir stick only along the inside edge of the paint can slowly. Try to emulate the speed of a paddle moving around the inside of a storage tank. What happens to the contents in the center of the paint can? Hardly moves or mixes at all doesn't it?

The re-circulation system that comes with the AK Tote, Drum, Portable, 130 and 230 Sprayers is absolutely amazing. Your sealer mixes up in 3 to 4 minutes and ready to apply.

This usually happens due to the tip clogging or if the tip is worn out past a usable point. Make sure to clean your spray tips after every sealcoat job. Buy new spray tips and invest in a filter kit to prevent clogged spray tips.

Any standard 4-stroke motor can be used. Like the ones used for lawn mowers, snow blowers, etc.

For Launtop engines, 5W-40 is recommended and you can fill up to the level of oil gauge which is about 0.5 Liter. For Honda engines, you can use 10W-30 or the 5W-30 during the cold season - around 0.55-0.6 Liter depending on the model.

Please refer to the manual included with your purchase.

The cause of this is over-agitating the sealer. Only recirculate your sealer for 2-3 minutes max at the beginning of the day and maybe for a minute at the beginning of each job.

The 130 gallon system fits in trucks as small as Ford Rangers, Chevy S10's, or any full sized pickup truck.

The 230 gallon system fits in full sized pickup trucks like Ford F150's or larger.

Both systems fit in most trailers.

The 130 (130 Gallon Capacity) = 13,000 square feet (1,207.74 square meters) of coverage.

The 230 (230 Gallon Capacity) = 23,000 square feet (2,136.77 square meters) of coverage.

These systems can be used with specific brands of Asphalt Emulsion sealer. The systems cannot spray sealer with sand.

Approved Sealers:

• Asphalt Emulsion (AE): GemSeal, Sealmaster and Neyra sealers only without the addition of any latex additives

We can't guarantee the performance of the systems with other people's sealer because they may add additives that we don't know about that could affect the performance of the pump, hoses, circulation, etc. We use the industry's best-quality sealer and we can assure you that you will not have any issues with it; if you wish to use another brand of sealer please contact the manufacturer to guarantee performance with your spray system.

If a chunk of sealer, a stone, or a rock is blocking the output of the tip, it would create a blockage in the tip that would create a trickle or a pressurized multi-stream spray. Sealer sitting in the tank for a long period of the tank can dry on the side walls and form flakes. These flakes can fall into the rest of the sealer and get suctioned through to your spray tip, causing a blockage.

We heavily advise investing in a filter kit, as it filters out unwanted chunks. See more troubleshooting tips for if you lose pressure at the spray tip.

Pump priming is simple. As long as there is constant liquid reaching the pump, it will prime and pump. The less air in the suction hoses the better the pump will prime and work.

When transferring sealer from drums to the main spray system tank make sure the transfer kit hose is completely full of water. Connect the barrel pipe to the transfer kit and then the other end of the transfer kit to the suction port of the pump and make sure the transfer kit hose remains full of water. Put the barrel pipe into the sealer drum. Make sure the ball valve handles are in transfer mode. Start your motor and begin your transfer.

The pump only needs to be primed the first time you use it or if you haven't used your pump for longer than 24 hours. Use 1 gallon of water in the pump through the pump orifice allows the machine to immediately push that liquid through, creating enough force to start pulling sealer from the tank.

If air is hitting your pump at anytime it will lose prime and the chances of burning up your seals are high. Make sure water or sealer is always reaching your pump.

If the pump is leaking between the engine and the motor, it's usually caused when the pump overheats, due to running the pump dry. The main master seal heats up and shrivels up, creating small cracks. Always make sure you run some kind of liquid in your pump, whether it be sealer or water during priming.